Pat My Butter

i know i’ve raved about joule here before, but having recently been back, i feel the need to do it again. oh, and chefs rachel and seif were on iron chef the other day.

i feel inspired when i’m at joule, excited when i look at the menu.  parsnip, white miso, and pickled apple?  prawn, sweet potato, and basil?  cucumber, sausage, and shiitake?  yes! somehow every combination sounds like it was made based upon my personal preferences. and while i may not have seen these things together like this, it all instantly makes perfect sense.

though the restaurant is influenced by multiple cuisines (including asian, french, and german according to their facebook page), there are clear themes throughout the food. thinly sliced green onions top much of the food. vinegar plays a strong role. the tofu, the mochi, the cornbread, the gnocchi, the mac and cheese, are all soft enough to accommodate weak teeth. the texture has warming, comforting effect, though, and when crispness is needed, kimchi is there. kohlrabi and asian pear or cucumber kimchi go with everything on the menu.

i can’t help but talk about the smoked tofu one more time.  maybe it’s all the asian ramen i’ve been eating lately, but the salty, umami from the mushrooms and soy is addicting (or it feeds an existing msg addiction). there’s truffle, but it’s subtle, green onion of course, and a mellow smokiness. the overall effect is clean, healthy even. another repeat success – the mochi. disks of the chewy, pounded rice play the role of pasta, are tossed with kale and a salty, rich oxtail ragout.

how have i gotten this far and not mentioned the cornbread?  it is simultaneously the most unexpected, rich, and indulgent item on the menu.  the cornbread is so soft it’s polenta-like, topped with liquidy gouda cheese, preserved garlic and (obviously) green onions.  fabulous, to say the least, particularly the crisp bits around the edges.

a new surprise delight this visit – the pickled beef tongue and vegetables.  the meat is so rich that pickling, a powerful flavor itself, works fabulously with it.  great on its own, the tongue, like the kimchi, goes great with anything else on the table.

joule’s flavors are so thought provoking and engaging that i find myself mentally reliving dishes and wishing i was there instead of…wherever i am.  if you can go, you should.